NEW YORK STATE OF
WINE
Back in the
70’s, Billy Joel wrote about being in a New York State of Mind. Had he written
the song today, he might have changed his tune. New York may be the wine
capital of the Eastern United States but it doesn’t get the same respect as its
western counterparts, California, Washington, and Oregon. New York actually has
the oldest operating winery in the country. So how is it that the state fell
behind the west coast in quality and prestige? The answer seems to lie in the
type of wines the state produced early on.
Vitis, or
grapevines, is a genus of around 60 accepted species of vining plants. The most
famous and important of these is Vitis Vinifera, which is native to Europe.
Among the many varieties of this species are the most well-known grapes which
are used to make the majority of the wine we drink. Instead of these grapes,
New York’s early focus was on Vitis Lambrsca, which included sweeter, lesser
quality grape varieties such as Concord and Catawba. In the late 1950’s, Dr.
Konstantin Frank began experimenting with European vinifera grape
stocks in the Finger Lakes, thus changing the course of the NY wine
industry.
Dr. Frank
was a European immigrant who arrived in the U.S. with family in 1951. He was a
professor of plant science and held a PhD in viticulture and eventually ended
up taking a position at Cornell University’s Geneva Experiment station. It was
there he came to the conclusion that it was the lack of proper rootstock and
not the cold climate that had caused the failure of Vitis Vinifera vines in the
Finger Lakes. He eventually found an ally in French Champagne maker Charles
Fournier of Gold Seal Vineyards, who began producing the first European
varieties in the Northeast. During the 70’s, even though the majority of wines
were still coming from Concord and similar varietals, a handful of producers
began producing fine wines, starting a shift toward the noble European
varieties.
Another huge
shift came in 1976 when the New York Farm Winery Act was passed, which allowed
the small winemakers that used New York grown grapes to sell their wine directly
to consumers rather than through wholesalers. This legislation helped kickstart
the industry. At the time, there were 19 wineries statewide. Today there are
more than 400.
The New York
wine industry is still young and continually evolving as winemakers continue to
learn, discover, experiment and take risks. Will New York wines ever take their
place alongside the great regions? For a bit of perspective, the first official
vineyard in Napa Valley was planted in 1859, but it wasn’t until the Judgment
of Paris, where two California wines beat the highly regarded Bordeaux wines in
a blind taste test, that the reputation of the region was cemented. That took
place in May 1976, the same year New York passed the Farm Winery Act.
Coincidence? Maybe, or possibly they realized a sea change was about to take
place in the domestic wine industry.
We sample enough
good quality New York wine that it’s a challenge to choose which ones to share
with our customers. We’ve cultivated a section we believe offers a diverse
selection of what the state has to offer. For those who would like to learn
more about the producers, or better yet, pay them a visit (it’s much cheaper
than a trip to Napa or Bordeaux) below are links to their websites. Support local wine!!!
From Long
Island
Shinn Winery works
biodynamically, practices sustainable farming, gets energy from solar and wind
power and utilizes holistic farming techniques. And if that wasn’t enough, they
voluntarily include ingredients on their bottles.
http://shinnestatevineyards.com/vineyard/vineyard-history
Shinn
Coalescence 2016 $14.99
A
fresh and juicy white made from Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Riesling.
Shinn
Estate Vineyards Red NV $14.99
A
smooth quaffable red blend made from Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah.
The Osprey Dominion brand
started in 2010 and they have quickly established themselves as a producer of
award winning wines.
Osprey
Dominion Merlot 2012 $16.99
Medium
body, striking just the right balance of fruit, oak and tannin. Includes 16%
Cabernet Franc and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon.
A father and son collaboration
which began in 1986, Jamesport Vineyards is now a three-generation winery.
Their winemaking approach is to interfere with nature as little as possible.
Their wines can be found at many top restaurants throughout Long Island and
Manhattan.
Jamesport Estate Sauvignon Blanc
2015 $17.99
Aromatic with rich tropical flavor and
citrus.
Another family winery, Paumanok was founded in 1983 by Ursula
and Charles Massoud and their three sons. They strive to produce wines in the
“Old World” style.
Paumanok Chenin Blanc 2015 $25.99
Dry and crisp with pineapple, apple
and a hint of grapefruit.
Lieb Cellars is a small production, Estate Grown Winery whose
brands also include Bridge Lane.
Lieb Cellars Cabernet Franc 2014
$27.99
Blackberry, tobacco & black
pepper highlight this Old World style Cabernet Franc.
From Finger Lakes
Red Newt’s first vintage was in 1998 and in 2011 they were
named as one of the top wineries of the year by Wine & Spirits magazine.
Red Newt Cellars Cabernet Franc
2014 $20.99
This Cabernet Franc sees no oak
which brings out the pure expression of the grape. Refreshing with fresh red fruit.
Forge Cellars is a small, artisanal producer of exceptional
Riesling and Pinot Noir. These wines are proof that New York is capable of
producing terroir driven wines.
A beautiful example of a Finger
Lakes Pinot Noir. Deep with cherry, raspberry & earth notes.
Red Hook Winery employs three winemakers, Robert Foley,
Robert Nicolson, and cult winemaker, Abe Schoener. They are located in Brooklyn
but source their grapes from the best vineyard sites in Long Island and Finger
Lakes.
Red Hook Winery Riesling Seneca
Lake 2013 $22.99
This Finger Lakes Riesling comes
from winemaker Foley. It sees only stainless Steel and is dry with notes apple,
apricot, lime and light honeycomb.
Wines from Goose Watch Winery emphasis the more uncommon
varietals found in New York such as Viognier, Pinot Grigio Lemberger and our
selection, Traminette.
Goose Watch Winery Traminette
2015 $13.99
A dry, fruit wine with bright stone
fruit and a spicy finish.
